"Sounds great!" I said. So after our banku with palmnut soup lunch, and after hacking open coconuts with a machete to drink the water and scoop out the meat for dessert, Oliver and I hopped on our creaky bikes to the far-off school.
We arrived! The students were in the middle of Culture class, and so they were all dancing outside to live drumming. How could we NOT join in? I danced like a dancing fool. The students will likely be laughing for years to come about the gawky yevu who dances like a chicken (pictured above).
"Madam Lillie," Yvonne said ceremoniously, picking up a sparkling red and silver wrapped package, "We appreciate all the work you have done with us, and we would like to present you with this gift to say thanks."
Amazing! I was overjoyed and so touched! "Shall I open it right now?" I asked dramatically, trying to build suspense and excitement for the unveiling, as we do so often back in America.
"Am I supposed to open it in front of them?" I whispered desperately to Oliver, realizing I was entering a cultural confusion castle. Oliver made some gesture with his head that was somewhere between a "No" and a "Yes." I was awfully confused.
Look at my expression in the photo to the lower right as I desperately tried to communicate with Oliver from his position behind the camera. "What do I do now, brother?" my eyes are pleading. Oliver simply made the same half "No" half "Yes" head movement. Oy!
Well, at this point it would have been very rude in America not to proceed with the unwrapping. I mean, these lovely people spent all this time to select a thoughtful gift and wrap it nicely. In my country, when we put in such an effort, we look forward to seeing the look on the recipient's face when they hungrily rip it open in front of us. How could I let them down?
Four layers of wrapping paper later, the most beautiful kente pattern fabric imaginable unfurled itself into my hands. Gold! Purple! Yellow! Green! Oh the beauty!
"This is as if you took all my most precious dreams and put them in the form of a cloth," I gushed, choking back tears of emotion. "It is the most perfect gift ever. Thank you so much!"
I handed my camera to Oliver to take photos. Again, I noted some strange expressions on the faces of everyone in the classroom. I began, with a sinking feeling, to realize that something, somewhere, had gone terribly wrong.
We snapped all sorts of photos, I gave a heartfelt speech of gratitude ("I will never forget how wonderful Total Child school is!"), and we waved goodbye. On the way out, I saw Madam Yvonne pull Oliver to the side for a hurried private conversation. They both seemed upset. I felt nauseous with unexplained guilt. What had I done?
At last, Oliver spoke. "You should not have opened the present in front of them," he said.
"Oh no!" I cried, "I'm so sorry. I was trying to read your face but I thought you might be joking when you said "No." Why didn't you just grab my hands and stop me? In my culture it is very rude NOT to open the present, so you should have showed me the right thing to do before I messed up!"
"I didn't want to embarrass you," said Oliver.
"But I'm even more embarrassed now!" I wailed. "You should have forcibly stopped me."
I felt absolutely terrible. That wonderful teacher and those forty kids had gone out of their way to get me a stunning gift, and I had reacted incredibly rudely. Argh!
Back in the guesthouse, I told the whole story to YCC's Director, John, and he laughed heartily. "Yes, it is very bad to open it in front of them. If they had wanted you to see it, they wouldn't have wrapped it, right?"
"But in my culture," I sniffled, "They wrap the present because it makes it more exciting when you slash it open!"
"Sigh," I sighed.
"Will you go to the seamstress to make it into another dress?" John asked, trying to change the subject and soothe me.
"Yes!" I said, perking up, "But I need her to re-take my measurements, because all the dresses she's made me are too tight."
"That's just because you're growing fat," said John cheerfully.
"Well let's not say you are getting fat," said John. "Let's just say you are growing huge."
"HOLY HEAVEN!" I shrieked, "In my culture that is the WORST thing you can say to a woman! How dare you?!"
John, Oliver, and Millicent laughed long and hard. "Here in Ghana," said John, "The worst thing you can call someone is "skinny." Saying someone is getting fat is a compliment that makes us smile!"
At this point, we all collapsed into fits of screaming and laughter then chased each other around the house pretending to fight. And the love and understanding were restored!
And as for getting chubby, if I have to choose between slimness and Millicent's banku, I'll take the banku any day!


What an amazing story of cultural misunderstandings and meaning. :) I felt your pain upon discovering the gift snafu. :( And yay to understanding and tolerance. :)
ReplyDeleteGreat story! That's so touching that they chose to give you a gift. And I'm sure, in the end, they'll have learned something from the cultural misunderstanding.
ReplyDeleteWow, this story is amazing. I smiled, laughed and felt just a little bit embarrassed on your behalf. And as said above - cultural exchange is not just about you learning from them.
ReplyDeleteCould I ask you how you got in touch with this project? I assume you are there as a volunteer? I would love to hear more about this via Twitter (link in name). I'm planning a rtw-trip with my girlfriend, and we are looking for volunteer-opportunities around the world :)
Such an amusing and thought-provoking story. I had almost the same experience in Tanzania when teaching there! At least they didn't wrap it up, so that saved me from embarrassment! Don't worry too much about it, the children probably went home and laughed about it. ;)
ReplyDeleteYou had no idea you would cause offense. Be OK with it and the kids and other teachers will be OK with it too. Someone could have stopped you and simply said, "We don't open gifts." That would have been it.
ReplyDeleteThere is a time to be polite and a time to tell it like it is. Oliver should have nicely told you how it is.
If you don't make mistakes, you never learn! At least you all were able to take it lightly and have a laugh about it-- and teach your readers so we don't make the same mistake :)
ReplyDeletethanks Christine for this statement " If you don't make mistakes, you never learn" but if you refuse to learn or take advised you always make mistakes.
ReplyDeletei think Lilie should have known Oliver better by now and should tell from his facial looks what he really means.
Interesting and funny story. Good time you had in Segakope
ReplyDeleteAh yes, present opening can be very treacherous! I've given Chinese people presents that they haven't opened right away and I've felt sad. But really, how could you have known? You couldn't! And you were so smart to ask. I find the most frustrating thing about cultural taboos is that people won't just come out and tell you what's normal!!! I mean they easily could have said, no take it home and enjoy it there. But of course they're worried that anything they say will be offensive to you. Oh well, we know you're strong enough to handle the embarrassment. And after all, they must expect the yevus to behave strangely sometimes - no big deal! I can't wait to get a fashion show of your awesome new (and tight) wardrobe.
ReplyDeleteOh my god this is so funny!! I'm laughing out loud by myself. I love Oliver's response: Why would you wrap something just to have it opened?
ReplyDeleteIt always threw me for a loop when something like this happened and I'd be thinking "that makes no sense" but when I thought about it I realized that MY way made no sense, not theirs. So funny.
I think those guys meant to say that you were getting phat, not fat. You know, P-H-A-T.
Pretty hot and tempting. Ha! Love this post.